Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Embroidery Needles and Other Sundries

!±8± Embroidery Needles and Other Sundries

High quality embroidery needles are expensive, but are more than worth the investment, for they will make your work a pleasure. Carelessly made embroidery needles have small imperfections that can snag your fabric and threads from previous stitching.

The larger the number, the smaller/finer the needle (milliners are exceptions). If the needle is too large, it's difficult to pass easily through the fabric and may produce sloppy-looking stitches. If too small, it damages the thread, even to the point of breakage, with each stitch you take.

Crewel (Embroidery)

These are the shortest needles used for embroidery, and are sized from 1 (the largest) to 10 (the smallest).

Chenille

These sharp-pointed needles have large eyes for easy threading, and are sized from 13 (the largest) through 26 (the smallest).

Tapestry

These blunt pointed needles will not pierce the fabric sufficiently for most embroidery stitches but are useful when you need to weave an additional thread on the surface of already completed stitches. They're sized the same as chenille needles.

Beading

These narrow needles have very fine eyes which can pass easily through the holes of beads, and are available in both long and short lengths.

Millners

These long needles have the same diameter along the entire length; use them to execute Bullion Knots.

Sharps

These general, all-purpose needles are useful for hand-finishing and basting.

Some other embroidery tools you might find useful in your stitching projects include the following.

Needle Threaders

These tiny, inexpensive tools are wonderful time savers; keep one handy as you work.

Embroidery Scissors

Reserve your scissors for needlework only and keep them with your other stitching tools. Have them professionally sharpened when they become dull. Use these for clipping threads and removing mistakes. (Never use a seam ripper for the latter.) Use a scissors sheath or case to protect the points and prevent them from stabbing other items in your stitching bag or basket. If you stitch with metallic and synthetic fibers, consider a second pair of embroidery scissors that are old and duller than your fine ones. (If you only have one good pair, don't cut these fibers using the tips of the scissors; cut closer to the base of the blade.)

Tweezers

Very useful for picking out threads when you're correcting mistakes.

Thimbles

These embroiderer's aids prevent callused and punctured fingertips, but are a personal preference.

Shears

Use dressmaker's shears for cutting your fabrics.


Embroidery Needles and Other Sundries

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Thursday, November 24, 2011

How To Make An Off The Shoulder T-Shirt

This is how I make my off the shoulder tops. Cut off the collar of the t-shirt off using dressmaker scissors. (I used some regular scissors and it took longer to cut) Make sure to cut evenly around the neckline. The bigger the sirt is the lower it will fall down your shoulders. Dressmaker scissors can be brought at target. Here is the link: www.target.com The music used in this video is for entertainment purposes only.

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Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Design a Dress - Know the Fundamentals

!±8± Design a Dress - Know the Fundamentals

Dress designing and dress making are as far apart as architectural designing and laying bricks, or reading blue prints, and yet - if the artist is going to design a dress or a building - in order to design not only a beautiful creation which can be executed and put to practical use - it will also be necessary to have knowledge of the dressmaking, or bricklaying, or the practical application of it. One of the essential elements when you design a dress is to have the basic equipment.

In order to do proper work the designing and sewing room has to be properly equipped. There are many labor saving devices on the market and many of these you will discover for yourself as you progress with your designing studies and work.

These are your basic tools:

Measuring tools - tape measure, yardstick, tailor's square, right angle triangle, T square, French curves.

Cutting tools- Shears, scissors, and pinking shears.

Marking tools - Skirt marker, tracing wheel and dressmaker's carbon paper, Tailor's chalk, and chalk board. This last you will have to make for yourself and Instructions are given at the end of this article.

Sewing machine - electric preferred.

Seam ripper, pins, needles, and thimble. Get dressmaker or silk pins - they will not mark delicate fabrics.

Dress Form. There are various kinds on the market which are adjustable. You can also make your own with gummed tape over cotton jersey.

Full length mirror.

Cutting table or folding cutting board.

Emery bag; Tweezers; Pressing equipment; Iron - This is one of your most important tools when you design a dress. If you press each seam as you sew before sewing on an adjoining piece - the effect will be more professional. Press cloth. Ironing Board. Sleeve Board. Tailor's Ham. Press mitt. Seam roll. Needle board for pressing pile fabrics. Pounding block or tailor's wooden clapper.

NOTIONS AND TRIMMINGS

Threads - one shade darker than your fabric.

Mercerized cotton for cottons, linens and blends. Silk for silks and wools. Nylon for synthetics.

Zippers and Nylon Tape Closures.

Belting, bias binding or seam tape, ribbon seam binding.

Snaps, hooks, and eyes.

Buttons, buckles.

Elastic, cording, horsehair braid.

Featherboning, zigzag stays, weights.

Shoulder pads.

Trimmings, braid, ribbon, rickrack, beading, pearls, sequins.

HOW TO MAKE A CHALK BOARD:

The chalk board should be about 20 x 24 inches in size. To make it you will require:

2 pieces of 22 x 26 inch soft white flannel

powdered chalk

rayon or cotton coarse net

carpet or thumb tacks

Smooth both pieces of flannel, one on the other, over the board - allowing an inch overlap on all sides.

Sprinkle powdered chalk evenly all over flannel. Rub in thoroughly and evenly.

Lay the net over the chalked flannel, tuck flannel and net under the board without tipping over the board.

Tack the center of each of the opposite sides to the edge of the board, then the centers of the remaining sides, then all around to keep chalked flannel and net stretched smooth and tight over board.

Cut off excess material.

Store in a horizontal position to keep chalk from spilling.

Now you have the equipment to design a dress you can begin the fascinating process of creation.


Design a Dress - Know the Fundamentals

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Thursday, November 3, 2011

Sewing Tips - Advancing Your Basic Techniques

!±8± Sewing Tips - Advancing Your Basic Techniques

You may sometimes think that basic techniques just fall into an elementary category. But I say that even the "Basics" can be divided into intermediate and advanced levels.

For example, your hand stitches fall into the beginning category, whereas accurate marking of notches, dart lines, placement lines, etc. are intermediate, and boning a bodice is an advanced practice. Yet the process of adding bones is still a basic skill of historical construction.

Here are 13 fundamental steps to advance you in the right direction when you are working on your sewing projects.

Intermediate Skills
Pressing and ironing. The secret to a professional looking garment (from any time period) is pressing as you go along. Don't rush ahead. Half of your sewing time should be at the ironing board. As for ironing, you do this to get wrinkles out of a fabric and what you do to your husband's dress shirts. However, you also iron your finished costume before wearing and after cleaning. Pressing is the up and down motion of the iron on the fabric. You do not slide the iron when pressing; you lift the iron and set it down again. Accurate marking of construction symbols. Notches, dart lines, centers, pocket, button and trim placements, sleeve dots, and other markings that help you put together your pattern pieces are critical in the construction process. Without them, your sleeves don't sit right in your bodice and you end up with the wrong space between buttonholes. Transfer these marks at the cutting stage before sewing. Keep one set of really good sharp shears reserved for fabric cutting only. Use a smaller set of scissors for cutting thread at your machine. And use even another pair for your paper patterns. Paper dulls scissor edges very quickly. Dull shears will mar your fabrics while cutting. Keep them sharp! Break down your sewing steps into small sections. Set goals for when each step should be completed. When you have only a small amount of time to sew, follow your goal sheet with the next step even if that means only pressing the hem and sewing later; or only setting in one sleeve per sewing session. If you work in stages and with set goals you will be amazed at what you can accomplish. Sharp, clean hand sewing needles. If you repeatedly use the same needle it will pick up your skin oils and make for going through fabric more difficult. Don't be afraid to throw out your old and dirty needles. They are cheap to replace. For dull hand sewing needles, use an emery strawberry to keep them sharp. During the cutting process, pin only in the seam allowances. Cut with the grain when possible. The best way to cut tulle is laid out on a self-healing mat and cut with a rotary cutter. Use natural fabrics ONLY for all your correct period undergarments. They breathe and keep you cooler and/or warmer depending on the weather. This is a must for you to remain comfortable in your layers of period clothing. I would not recommend a poly/cotton blend for your chemise and drawers even though it doesn't crease like 100% cotton or linen. Even the minor polyester content will keep you overheated; and inexpensive cotton fabrics are readily available.
Advanced Basics:

Grading seam allowances. Grading is very important for enclosed seams to lie flat. It is another method to keep your projects from looking "home-made." Trim all layers in a seam to graduated widths. This includes interfacings, interlinings, facings, collars, pockets and flaps - any fabric layers sandwiched within a seam. Taper them all to different levels. Take a new set of measurements before each project and over correct undergarments. Do not assume you're the size same as last season. Verify the numbers. And don't wait to lose or gain weight before starting an outfit. It will never get done if you procrastinate. Ways exist to take-in and let-out garments to allow for weight fluctuations. Just get the project started. Cry over having to cut a 2nd mock-up - not over having to buy 10 more yards of /yd silk. Muslins (mock-ups/drafts/examples made up in a cheap fabric to test your pattern) are worth their time and effort. They will save you valuable money and time. Always buy that extra yard or two of special fabric and trim. You probably won't find it again. Better be safe than sorry. You can always make a reticule (bag or purse) as an accessory for your costume or a fancy pillow for your home. Any extra fabrics you don't want or need can be donated to your local American Sewing Guild who will make the fabric into articles for those in need (e.g. quilts, caps for cancer patients, etc.). When in doubt, add one more petticoat. Petticoats make all the difference in a correct looking outfit and a thrown together costume (even if you spent many hours on it). Wear correctly shaped petticoats that follow the line of your skirt. Keep them one to four inches shorter than your skirt hem. Look at period art and fashion plates for design ideas. Fashion plates were first published in the late 18th century. (To give an example, the featured spread in our current Vogue magazine and other contemporary fashion magazines are today's fashion plates.) Women would look at these published sketches, modify them for their own tastes and budget then create the new outfit.

And the final (bonus) basic tip that works for every sewing level:

Don't sew while angry, PMS'ing, or during a hurricane.

No matter what fundamental method you are striving to perfect, it will take your sewing to the next level of professionalism.

Best of luck to you as you apply these basic techniques to your historical sewing!

© 2008 Brookwaite Enterprises and Cloak & Corset


Sewing Tips - Advancing Your Basic Techniques

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